October 12-14

We took the train(s) from Venice to the Cinque Terre on Monday, and because we had quite a few transfers (4) and missed our last train (because we were in the station late) we didn’t get into Manarola until 5pm. The area surrounding the 5 towns that hug the Mediterranean cost between Genoa and La Spezia is called Cinque Terre. They are just a quick train ride or a beautiful, challenging, rewarding hike down the coast from each other. They are unique in their construction, as they are literally built into the rock that juts into the sea. Originally this was for protection from pirate sieges and pillages, but now makes for a picturesque setting for a relaxing seaside Mediterranean vacation. The five towns from north to south are Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. We decided to stay in Manarola over the other towns because we heard that it is a little smaller and quieter than the rest of the Cinque Terre towns. We didn’t make reservations, but instead asked around once we got there and were able to find a great room with a kitchenette, table and private bath for 75 euros a night which is a steal really considering the going rate in this area is more like 95+.

Manarola at night.

Leah pouring herself a glass straight out of the tap!

Once we settled in and got cleaned up we decided to get our first glimpses of our new little town. So we stopped for a spritz-to-go and wandered down the path to admire the famous cliff hugging shops and houses. We had dinner reservations at 8pm so we had plenty of time to stroll around and see the few shops and restaurants along the way. We celebrated our 2^nd wedding anniversary at a well-reviewed restaurant called Trattoria dal Billy. It’s way up on the cliff and has part of the restaurant dug into the cliff that is pretty sweet. We ate pesto and Swordfish dishes and they were delicious the Swordfish dish was the best! The atmosphere was festive and we got to know our neighbors, 4 French ladies on holiday, which is really what traveling the world is all about anyway right?
Celebrating our 2nd anniversary at Trattoria Dal Billy.
The next day, Tuesday, October 13, we got up early and headed into Riomagiore for breakfast and laundry. We ended up buying a day pass that includes the trains, shuttle buses and walking paths and we are glad we did because we definitely got our moneys worth since we were only there 2 nights and wanted to see all 5 towns. After breakfast we stopped into Manarola to drop our laundry and pick up the shuttle to Volterra, which is where we picked up the hiking trail to Corneglia. Usually, you can easily walk from Manarola to Corniglia via the Via dell’Amore but it was closed when we were there so we took the “scenic” route it really was very scenic but quite a bit longer than Via dell’amore. The hiking trail winds its way through impossibly terraced vineyards and olive tree groves. Since the shuttle does most of the climb up we enjoyed going down, down, down. It’s a decent hike and the trail is pretty rustic. I had running shoes and wished for my sturdier hiking boots.

Hiking through the vineyards to Corniglia.

Once we got into Corniglia we enjoyed threading our way through the winding streets with a basil gelato in our hands (for me anyway, tiramisu for Jamie). We stopped in for a panini and a glass of wine for lunch and then headed for the train station. I’ll say here that Corniglia was our favorite of the 5 towns although most people skip it because it’s more on a hill than the others. We thought it was lovely and less crowded and more authentic than the others, and it’s probably for that reason that we loved it so.
The view from Corniglia.

From Corniglia we went on to Vernazza, probably the most popular of the 5 and promptly spent only a couple moments snapping pictures before the crowds of tourists got the better of us and we retreated to the hiking trail to Monterosso. This trail was also beautiful and rugged and a good exercise. I chose jeans this day and regretted that decision after hiking this trail. We were good and sweaty and satisfied with the views the hike afforded us by the time we reached Monterosso. We wandered around Monterosso for a while and walked the beach and dipped our hands in the Mediterranean. Of the 5 Monterosso is more spread out and easier to walk, it was a nice contrast to the others. From there we headed back to Manarola tired and ready for showers and a good pesto dinner.

Vernazza’s Harbor

When we left the next day we had mixed feelings about Cinque Terre, we loved the area and the hiking trails (there were many trails that we were unable to explore due to time) however, it felt a little over-run by tourists and we couldn’t wait to get some space, and streets to ourselves. So we will probably be back but will stick to the less explored trails and small towns.

The town of Vernazza.

Happy Trails,

The Smuckers